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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.