Skip to content
Choice Journal

Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani along with a World More: A Historic Indian City Earns a Spot on Unesco Creative Cities List.

Biryani cooking using the traditional Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.

Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.

A Global Honor

Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".

The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.

An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul

The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".

With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.

"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Melt-in-the-mouth kebabs as a dish
Lucknow is renowned for its incredibly tender kebabs.

A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine

The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.

These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.

It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.

But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.

Beyond Kebabs and Biryani

Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert a winter specialty
The city showcases distinctive treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a one-of-a-kind frothy dessert, in the winter.

Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops

Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.

For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall serving masala chai
A famous tea stall is noted for its creamy spiced tea.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.

On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children do not want to master the skill.

A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.

DA
By

Daniel Armstrong

Eleanor Ashford is a literary scholar and editor specializing in modernist poetry and digital humanities.

Choice Journal

Type to search articles.